2 days in the Balkans' capital
Belgrade, Serbia
Where to stay, what to do, and where to eat and drink. A practical two-day route through Belgrade's fortress park, riverfront, and best-loved cafés, bars and restaurants, all from my own trip.
The itinerary
Day 1 morning: Kalemegdan Park
Spend half the morning here. There's a huge amount going on: archery, a Dino Park, arcade games, outdoor chess tables, and fortress views over the point where the Sava meets the Danube.
Day 1 afternoon: wander Dorćol
Dorćol is full of vintage clothing shops and independent boutiques. A good slow afternoon between the park and dinner. Grab a coffee at June Café, Slogi, Sonder or Happy Beans.
Day 1 evening: bars, Skadarlija and a river club
Try Boho Bar, and check listings because open-air festivals often run through summer. For dinner, head to Skadarlija, Belgrade's cobbled bohemian quarter, for local food and live tamburica music in its old taverns. For a proper night out, Leto is one of the splavs, the floating clubs moored on the Sava, where people dance over the water until sunrise.
Day 2 morning: Temple of Saint Sava
One of the largest Orthodox churches in the world. Free entry, and a quick 20 to 30 minute visit if you're not lingering for the crypt.
Day 2 midday: Galerija Mall
Belgrade Waterfront's big modern mall, with Zara, Mango, Sephora and plenty more well-known names.
Day 2 afternoon: Silosi
Old grain silos on the Danube turned into an art and bar space. Catch an exhibition, sit and watch the river, or try the climbing wall built into the silos.
Day 2 evening: dinner on the water
Head down to Beton Hala ("Concrete Hall"), the old Sava port warehouses that are now a row of restaurant terraces on the water. Eat at Ambar or Toro, both recommended. For cocktails after, try Kisser 10, Red Bar or April Bar, or go up to the rooftop at Mama Shelter on Knez Mihailova for sunset.
Where to stay
Mona Plaza
My top pick. The biggest hotel in Dorćol, with a full spa and gym, and most rooms have a bath. Perfect after a long day of steps.
Radisson Red
A reliable, well-located alternative in the same neighbourhood.
What to eat
Burek (flaky filo pie with meat, cheese or spinach), ćevapi, pljeskavica, sarma, ajvar and kajmak, karađorđeva, knedle, and a rakija for the toasts. Ćevapi might ruin burgers for you forever.
Good to know
- There's no Uber or Bolt in Serbia. Use Pink Taxi, CarGo or Yandex Go.
- From the airport, get a fixed-price taxi voucher from the desk in arrivals.
- Carry some dinars. Most places take cards, but small taverns, taxis and market stalls want cash.
- Get a tourist SIM from the MTS or Yettel kiosks at the airport. I paid €4 for three days of data.
- Tip 10 to 15% if you're happy with the service.
- A few words go a long way: hvala (thank you), molim (please) and živeli! (cheers).
- It's hot in summer. A nice top and shorts works almost everywhere, and comfy shoes for the fortress.
- For a slower morning, Mandala in Dorćol does good reformer and mat Pilates.
Get new itineraries first
One email when a new guide goes live. No spam, unsubscribe any time.